Toric Retrograde Perpetual CalendarReference# PFH427-1600200-HA1241
- Case: 18-karat rose gold
- Size: 42.5mm
- Movement: automatic winding manufacture caliber PF317
- Function: perpetual calendar, moon phase, retrograde date
- Power Reserve: approximately 50 hours
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Dial: slate, hand-guilloché
- Caseback: sapphire crystal
- Hands: luminous, javelin-shaped
- Strap/Bracelet: alligator leather by Hermès
- Factory Warranty: three years
Parmigiani Fleurier has taken one of the very finest complications – the perpetual calendar – and placed it at the heart of its most classic, timeless watch: the Toric. With a precision moon phase and retrograde perpetual date, this watch is the most complex and accomplished of calendar timepieces.
The perpetual date function automatically adjusts the date to precisely the number of days in each month, including February and its varying length over the course of the leap year cycles. At the heart of the caliber PF317, the cam which governs the months is equipped with a planet gear which controls the variable number of days in February. The indication for this device is released from the central wheel at the right point in time, jumping the date instantly to the first of the next month. This type of mechanism is highly complex to create on the minute scale of a wristwatch.
The device governing the precision moon calendar is integrated into the same module as the date calendar. By virtue of its gear system, which is much more complex than on a conventional lunar calendar, it tracks the moon phases accurately, with only one correction needed every 122 years.
The distinguishing feature of the Toric Retrograde Perpetual Calendar is its two dial versions which offset the red gold of the case. The first is white grained, which uses expertise specific to the Parmigiani Fleurier manufacture to lend the material a striking brilliance. The second dial has a hand guilloché finish, with a pattern representing the concentric arrangement of the scales on a pine cone. This arrangement is one of many natural expressions of the Golden Ratio which defines a harmonious relationship of proportions. The decoration is interrupted around the top edge, to highlight the semi-circular retrograde date cartouche, and in the center, where the day and month are shown in two separate windows. The precision moon phase sits elegantly at 6 o’clock, displayed on an aventurine disc which evokes a starry night sky, in the middle of which sits the moon in each of the two hemispheres. These moon discs echo the rose gold color of the case, and the semi-skeletonized javelin-shaped hands.
The Toric Retrograde Perpetual Calendar is designed so that the case sits tightly on the wrist, with a more slender, more elegant shape than previous versions. The curved contours inject a certain dynamism into the design. The end of the strap and its attachment have been redesigned to reflect this, and the lugs rendered more ergonomic, making it more comfortable to wear. The crown is also more imposing, topped with a blue sapphire cabochon. While retaining the collection’s iconic codes — particularly the hand-knurled bezel which is the signature of this family — the Toric Retrograde Perpetual Calendar offers a vibrant yet understated appearance.