Reference# MTR.ALG89.000-020
Manufacturer's retail price: $268,000
  • Details
  • Description
  • Limited Edition: 20 pieces
  • Case: 18-karat rose gold and grey PVD-treated titanium
  • Size: 45mm
  • Movement: hand-wound manufacture caliber ALG89
  • Function: minute repeater with cathedral gongs, big date, dual time/GMT, day/night
  • Power Reserve: approximately 60 hours
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Dial: openworked
  • Caseback: sapphire crystal
  • Hands: luminous
  • Strap/Bracelet: hand-stitched alligator
  • Factory Warranty: five years

Following Adagio and Soprano, Christophe Claret presents his third musical masterpiece, Allegro. A master watchmaker with 30 years of experience, Christophe Claret has combined the finest horological complications in Allegro: minute repeater with cathedral gongs, GMT with day/night indicator, big date and small seconds. These features are all found in a completely redesigned movement featuring a unique regulator that was designed and manufactured in-house. The round case harmoniously blends rose gold with titanium. An opening in the sapphire dial reveals the striking mechanism. The transparent dial allows the wearer to marvel at the movement’s architecture, featuring Charles X style skeletonized, stepped bridges. With this timepiece, the conductor of this musical horological orchestra from Le Locle proves he is at the pinnacle of his art.

Ever since the day Christophe Claret entered the workshop of a watchmaker and restorer as a student, he has had an unquenchable passion for complicated timepieces, especially antique pocket watches equipped with a minute repeater. These marvels of precision strike the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. Christophe Claret has continued to study the minute repeater in order to understand and improve this great complication, which many consider the finest in watchmaking because it blends musical poetry with technical complexity. In 1989, the first very caliber bearing the name Christophe Claret was a minute repeater. This was followed by a series of chiming watches with evocative names like Adagio, Soprano and Allegro, the latest in this prestigious musical series. Allegro honors tradition on the one hand, while on the other is resolutely turned towards modernity and innovation. All this without any technical or esthetical compromises, and all in respect of the stringent demands of Swiss haute horlogerie.

Allegro sets the tone in the Christophe Claret collection of Traditional Complications, the first of four collections by the Le Locle-based brand. Allegro is inspired by Christophe Claret’s previous creations while pushing the limits of horological feasibility. The movement has been completely redesigned, from the plates and bridges through to the inertia flywheel regulating the minute repeating mechanism, and including the critical heart of the piece: the regulating organ.

Allegro’s caliber is regulated by a 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) balance, and powered by a single mainspring barrel − rare for this type of movement − providing a very healthy 60-hours of power reserve. The minute repeater is activated by a traditional slide at 10 o’clock on the left side of the caseband. Part of the repeater mechanism, the rack is visible through an opening in the lower section of the sapphire dial. Both hammers – the four-armed balance wheel and repeater inertia governor ¬– are visible through the display back.

For Allegro, Christophe Claret selected a balance wheel with countersunk screws. Despite being more complex, this type of balance wheel offers a near perfect inertia ratio, aerodynamic form, and ease of regulation and poising. Cathedral gongs, which circle the movement not once but twice, are a particular passion of Christophe Claret’s and considerable emphasis is devoted to their manufacture using traditional drawn steel, as well as to their assembling and tuning. The cathedral gongs also benefit from a patented Christophe Claret invention that minimizes excessive vibrations, thereby resulting in clearer crystalline chimes. Allegro’s movement has no fewer than three patents for: the big date, the balance wheel micro-regulation, and the gongs. The patent numbers are engraved on the back of the caseback.

Allegro’s complications offer several useful features. A GMT/second time zone is displayed at 3 o’clock on the dial and is adjustable by means of a caseband pusher at 4 o’clock. Complementing the GMT is a day/night indicator. Allegro also features a big date at 12 o’clock, which is adjusted by a caseband pusher at 2 o’clock and small seconds are displayed in a subdial at 9 o’clock.