Baselworld Update: Introducing the Kind of Blue Collection from De Bethune

The DB28 Kind of Blue

In honor of the color blue, a fundamental element of its identity, De Bethune presents a monochromatic range of its iconic models, DB28 and DB28T. Radical and magnetic, their color is created by an artisanal and natural treatment of the metals.

De Bethune has devoted considerable research into natural blue, because the brand considers this color to be symbolically related to the concept of infinity and harmony. Therefore, De Bethune has dedicated two new creations to this color, both entirely blue, and united them under the name Kind of Blue.

At De Bethune, the color blue is imbued with a broad and deep meaning. Evoking simultaneously water, the sky and space, the color blue is above all envisaged as a luminous vibration by David Zanetta, curator and co-founder, and Denis Flageollet, master watchmaker and co-founder. At De Bethune, each color corresponds to a different type of energy derived from the colors of which it is composed.

DB28T Kind of Blue

Blue is also associated with the notion of plenitude: within and beyond itself, and as far as this unfathomable infinity that is the universe, the source of life. So blue becomes a vector that subtly connects mankind with his physical and his spiritual environment. Seen in the context of artistic expression, the concept of blue approaches the magic of music, which is the inspiration for the name given to these creations.

To create its own blue, De Bethune relied exclusively on a traditional technique, and all the parts in titanium and steel used in Kind of Blue were treated in this manner. It consists of heating the material to color its surface through oxidation and to modify its physical properties in the process. Since its invention at the beginning of the 16th century, the technique has been used by watchmakers to give a new luster to watch parts without altering their finishings. It also provides protection against corrosion. The synonym of watchmaking excellence, it requires a preliminary fine polishing, followed by a heating phase, normally by flame, to create a natural and long-lasting protective film, at the same time as it increases the hardness of the piece. Steel and iron were the only materials treated in this manner until De Bethune began its own experiments with titanium. Finalized in 2006, the technique is now applied to the purest form of this material, grade 5 titanium. Entirely done by hand, this extremely demanding treatment involves the development of a whole new repertory of steps, because titanium has proven to be a very arduous material to remodel. To give it its definitive lustre, the artisans at De Bethune have to demonstrate exceptional tenacity with each piece they work on.

The thermal treatment for Kind of Blue is applied not only to the elements of the case, but also to most of the parts of the movement. Thus, each part is studied individually, as the process has to be adapted according to its form and its mass. This preliminary phase is essential to ensure a uniform range of tones in the finished product. However, the human touch and the different typologies of the materials result in very subtle variations. These nuances are essential for De Bethune, because they create a visual resonance that affects the appearance of the finished piece. Actually, the definitive color comes from the sum of all these variations and it is expressed by a kind of overall vibration.

The balance wheel is made of silicon edged with white gold

An iconic De Bethune model, the DB28 presents a case made of polished grade 5 titanium, mounted on two floating lugs to ensure superior wearing comfort. On the inside, the mechanical caliber with manual winding is fully visible and integrates several fundamental technical inventions. The patented spherical moon-phase is positioned at 6 o’clock. Made of steel and palladium, it offers precision that varies by only one lunar day every 122 years. At the heart of the watch, the high-performance escapement developed by De Bethune presents a silicon annular balance, encircled by a white gold ring and a balance-spring with a flat terminal curve that is exclusive to De Bethune. It is protected by a triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system. Power is accumulated and distributed through two self-regulating barrels, also developed by De Bethune. An indicator needle positioned between 2 and 3 o’clock indicates the level of torque that has been built up. The power reserve indicator can be read on the back of the plate, which is decorated with special concentric graining. All the finishes are done by hand with a motion work bridge in polished titanium, bridges with “Cútes De Bethune” decoration and rose-work grinding on the barrel ratchets. The hours are indicated by skeleton hands on arrow pointers made of polished steel.

The high-frequency tourbillon is the lightest in the world.

The DB28T, a technical development of the DB28, adopts the same case in polished titanium held by double floating lugs for maximum comfort. Its mechanical caliber with hand winding is equipped with a high frequency, ultra fast tourbillon, signed De Bethune. The lightest in the world with its minuscule 0.20 grams for 63 parts, it beats at one-tenth of a second and makes a complete rotation in 30 seconds for superior chronometry. Its silicon balance wheel, just as its escape wheel, is encircled with a white gold ring. A self-regulating twin barrel developed in-house ensures constant torque in the movement. Entirely visible, the movement presents a curved delta motion work bridge in polished titanium decorated with applied microsphere stars in white gold.

Decorated by hand, the parts present various types of high watchmaking finishes, with rose-work grinding on the barrel ratchets and on the back, a plate with “De Bethune” concentric graining. The hours are marked by arrow pointers in pink gold, and as an added touch of luxury, indicated by skeleton hands also fashioned in pink gold.

At once supreme and delicate, the Kind of Blue DB28 and DB28T emit a singular radiance from the very material from which they are made. They truly advocate in favor of a color that casts a magical spell.

Reference: DB28BTiBN /S

Vintage: Production limited to 10 pieces in 2016

Functions: Hours, minutes, spherical moon-phase at 6 o’clock. Power reserve on case back, Performance indicator between 2 and 3 o’clock

Using a corrector for the spherical moon-phase

Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel, a De Bethune Innovation (2004)

Technical features: Silicon annular balance encircled by a white gold ring, De Bethune Patent (2010)

ìDe Bethuneî balance-spring with flat terminal curve, De Bethune Patent (2006)

Silicon escape wheel

Spherical moon-phase indicator with precision of one lunar day every 122 years, De Bethune Patent (2004)

Blued triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, De Bethune Patent (2005)

Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour

Adornment: Hand made, blued grade 5 mirror-polished titanium motion works bridge

Plate cover and bridge cover on the barrel in grade 5 blued titanium, decorated with ìCÙtes De Bethuneî

Barrels decorated with rose-work grinding and blued by hand

Power reserve indicator in grade 5 titanium, hand decorated with ìDe Bethuneî concentric graining and blued by hand

Steel parts beveled, polished and flame-blued by hand

Display: Hands in mirror-polished and flame-blued steel

Spherical moon-phase indicator with precision of one lunar day every 122 years, De Bethune Patent (2004)

Performance indicator between 2 and 3 o’clock

Dial: Hours ring in grade 5 polished and blued titanium with pointers in pink 5N gold

Minutes ring in grade 5 satin-polished and blued titanium

Reference: DB28TBRBN / S

Vintage: Production limited to 5 pieces in 2016

Functions: Hours, minutes, 30 second indicator through the ultra-light silicon and titanium De Bethune tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock, Power reserve on case back

Movement: DB2019

Type: Mechanical caliber with manual winding

Adjustment: Using the crown (2 positions) for winding, and setting the time

Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel, a De Bethune Innovation (2004)

Technical features: Silicon escape wheel encircled with a white gold ring, De Bethune Patent (2010)

“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve, De Bethune Patent (2006)

Silicon escape wheel

Ultra-light 30 second De Bethune Tourbillon in silicon and titanium, De Bethune Innovation (2008)

Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour

Adornment: Motion works bridge and cover plate in grade 5 titanium, mirror-polished and blued by hand

Bridge cover on the barrel decorated in grade 5 mirror-polished and blued titanium, encrusted by hand with stars in white gold

Rose-work grinding by hand on the barrels

Decoration on power reserve indicator in grade 5 titanium “De Bethune” concentric graining and blued by hand

Steel parts beveled and flame-blued by hand

Display: Hand-polished hands in pink 5N gold

De Bethune 30-second ultra-light tourbillon in silicone and titanium at 6 o’clock, De Bethune Innovation (2008)

Dial: Hours ring in grade 5 polished and blued titanium with pointers in pink 5N gold

Minutes ring in grade 5 satin-polished and blued titanium