An Urban Jürgensen timepiece has always been an example of uncompromising craftsmanship, a tradition the company feels honor-bound to perpetuate. The maison’s timepieces are not factory made out of some anonymous industrial building, but carefully honed in a traditional atelier. The creation of an Urban Jürgensen watch is not the product of expedience, but instead the prolonged pursuit of excellence deploying the traditional highly specialized forms of craftsmanship reflecting the timeless traditions of the company.
At Urban Jürgensen there is a belief that perfection is seldom the product of haste. Machinery may offer capacity, but hand craftsmanship provides individuality and a lasting joy. While traditional materials ensure longevity, skillful hands are required to deftly manipulate tools in order to create horological objects of beauty.
In accord with the extraordinary history and high level of watchmaking of Urban Jürgensen comes the new limited edition of 30 pieces – 1140L PT Blue. At first glance, the 1140L PT Blue exhibits a simplicity that conceals the complexity of its creation. The construction methods and craftsmanship used appeal especially to connoisseurs of fine watchmaking. While some design elements and finishing are clear to see, others are virtually hidden from view. This new model compliments the Jürgensen 1745 collection with a blend of the company’s most precious examples of watchmaking art; the Urban Jürgensen hands, guilloché dial, white-gold appliques and the in-house P4 movement.
The 40mm classical case design used in this reference has a round form, teardrop shaped lugs and stepped bezel combined with exquisitely finished dial and hands.
Urban Jürgensen hands are very much hand-made. They comprise a number of components that are individually honed, assembled and finished. This naturally implies numerous hours of highly skilled workmanship and are a key feature of Urban Jürgensen timepieces. The white gold arms of Urban Jürgensen hands are cut from solid white gold and manually finished to ensure a perfect shape and fit. Its asymmetrical design, gently tapered towards the tip, ensures a unique elegance. This unwavering commitment to excellence is further exemplified at the very center of the dial, in the precision-turned and mirror-polished solid gold hand pipes (also known as bushes), around which the arms are riveted to ensure a perfect fit.
Urban Jürgensen is considered a master of the art of the hand-finished guilloché dials. In this model it can be appreciated in the great attention to detail in the dial layout and pattern selections: grains d’orges and guilloché Damier. Each dial requires up to 700 operations and takes two full days of hand work to complete on a guilloché lathe. After engine-turning and careful satin finish of the chapter ring the dial is imbued with the proprietary Urban Jürgensen blue, and indexes and logo are applied.
The white gold Urban Jürgensen Arabic numeral appliques are inspired by the hand painted enamel and gran feu dials of our historic pocket watches – an inspiration that imparts almost impossible challenges in crafting them in solid gold. Transferring the long extremely thin lines painted in a “1” or a “2”, or the small “+” on a “4” is a challenge very few master today. It is simply very difficult and delicate work.
The Urban Jürgensen numerals cannot be stamped out. They are cut in several cutting processes from a solid gold sheet to arrive at the final shape, followed by an extremely delicate polishing process finished by hand to arrive at the fine “bombé” pillow shaped profile. And because they are so fine in the details, no two sets on two dials are identical.
Hand-wound, hand-fitted and hand-made: hands at Urban Jürgensen indeed not only indicate time, but in 2017 continue to stir the same excitement, approval and wonder among watchmakers and connoisseurs alike as they have for over 240 years.